If you could only pick a few wines to take with you on your own personal ark, which would you choose? If you’re Piergiorgio Castellani, this rich, Puglian-grown Negroamaro would definitely be on the manifest. (In fact, that’s why he’s called it “L’arca.”) Why’d it make the cut? Negroamaro is one of the classic grapes of Puglia—the “heel” of Italy’s boot. It’s famous for making intensely deep and dark wines more than hinted at by its name: an amalgom of the Greek and Latin words for “black.” It’s an ancient grape that deserves the spotlight. And after one sip of this beauty, we think you’ll agree. First, there’s that light-absorbing, red-violet color, followed by aromas and flavors of red cherry and currant, edged by spice. With its smooth, long finish and surprisingly zippy backbone, it’s an ideal match for meaty pasta dishes with rich tomato sauce, peppery salami, or mature cheeses.